I stayed last night at a Chambre d’Hote on the edge of Thiviers.

It was fine, but I am sure it was not worth three times the cost of staying in a pilgrim hostel. I am using these more, and the experience so far is excellent.

I have learnt that, because the pilgrimage routes often pass through thinly inhabited country areas for long periods it is important to carry a decent picnic. So by the time I had packed up and got going, and gone into town to forage for bread and cheese and apple it was 9.45 before I was properly on the way.

It was a lovely sunny morning, with some real warmth in the air, and everything around looked glorious. Perigord is a wonderful region, and on a sunny spring day looked amazing – my route gave views both ways

Everything in nature seemed to busy today.

Besides these donkeys there were plenty of satisfied cattle grazing, huge geese farms for foie gras production (but at least they were free-range), a splendid French cockerel, and something I had never seen before, a Western Whip Snake run over on the road.

I also saw lizards and buzzards, heard cuckoos and woodpeckers, and saw all kinds of butterflies. I passed a man with a bee hive (un ruche) off to rehouse a colony and, in a disorderly display saw tulips, lilacs, and wisteria all in bloom together. It was like nature was having a party.

Eighteen very happy kilometres later I came into Sorges, the capital of Truffle country (and thereby left green Périgord for black). I found the hostel nestled next to the Mairie and the ancient parish church.

An excellent welcome, impeccable cleanliness, hot shower, a hearty supper, and washing machine and tumble drier – and all for whatever each pilgrim wants to give. Miraculous hospitality.

I visited the parish church before supper. Architecturally ancient and shambolic, it is a gem. Clean, loved, used, with a fine new organ, and a remarkable series of Stations of the Cross by a local artist, cast in bronze.

An early start tomorrow to get to Pergiueux. Good night all!