Today was a most enjoyable day’s walking. We all got up early and had breakfast at 7. Thierry was first away as he planned to do 32kms to Négronde. I left at 7.50.

There had been no rain overnight, and though the sky was cloudy, it looked like it would get better, it was warmer, so I risked shorts.

As is my custom, once I get onto the right road out of town I put my ear buds in and play the recorded version of morning prayer. France has amazingly good signal almost everywhere, so it streams without any problem, and it sets me up for the day.

The route started on a very minor road, but within one kilometer I was directed onto a green lane through woodland.

It was really lovely country to walk in, part of what the French call ‘le Périgord vert’, but after all this rain the pathways, unsurprisingly, were waterlogged. So progress was slowed by trying to avoid sinking into the mud. I was doing fine until one of my walking poles slid a bit and down I went into the mire. Beyond muddy legs and wet feet all was well.

Other creatures on the route were deer and racoons. There were all kinds of birds, and it was a real delight to hear quite a few cuckoos as I went along. It was a route that took me entirely by paths and country lanes, and I passed through no centres of habitation. I noticed some excellent gardens along the way, with far more imagination and interest shown in their creation than I have seen here before.

By 12.45 I was coming in to Thiviers. I made my way to the town centre, and ate my bread and cheese in the town square in front of the church of Our Lady.

I had done my walk by lunchtime, so spent the afternoon getting pilgrim crédential stamped in the Tourist Office, looking around the old town, doing a bit of shopping, and then having coffee with Fabienne.

This beautiful chateau stands just behind the parish church overlooking the valley below the town and road between Limoges and Perigueux. By mid afternoon I had walked out to the edge of town and was installed in my lodgings for tonight, with this beautiful view.

The weather is due to be better over the weekend. But beyond that…

Pavement marker of the pilgrims way.