Camino Stage 6: Day 12 – Pamplona to Puente la Reina

When I booked the place at the hostel in Puente la Reina yesterday, the staff member advised me to start early, "It's going to be over 30° in the afternoon, so it's best to do as much as you can in the morning." I set off at 06:40 in the dark. I reckoned that Pamplona's …

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Camino Stage 6: Day 11 – Villava to Pamplona.

This hardly counted as a walk, to be honest. I gave myself permission to lie in, and so didn't leave the hostel much before eight. I was joined early on by Martin, an ex-prison governor from Milton Keynes, and together we shared a pleasant flat stroll through suburbs which brought us to the hefty and …

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Camino Stage 6: Day 9 – Roncesvalles to Zubiri

The lights came on in the abbey dormitory at 06:15, breakfast was at 07:00, and we had to be out and away by 08:00.  It had not been a restful night. Twenty or so people jammed into a room with bunk beds. I have to say that my years of going on the top bunk …

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Camino Stage 6: Day 6 – Saint-Palais to Ostabat-Asme

Dawn in Saint-Palais The hostel in Saint-Palais had been a Franciscan friary until 2005 when the last friars left. It was taken over by the municipality and comprehensively upgraded (new cloister constructed besides other improvements). Use is now shared between the municipal tourist office, a museum of Basque history and the pilgrims hostel. In the …

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Camino Stage 6: Day 4 – Les Étoiles d’Orion to Osserain-Rivareyte

My hostesses at Les Étoiles were kindness itself, but nevertheless I did not sleep well.   Perhaps it was the humidity. I was woken in the night, briefly by the heavy rain. In the morning, it was ten degrees cooler and very overcast with low cloud. Not as beautiful, but much nicer for walking! The quince …

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Camino Stage 6: Days 1 & 2 – Southwell to Orthez

Yesterday was a special day for Laurence (his 26th sobriety anniversary, since you asked), marked by cards and visits from friends, and a great sense of pride. Me pushing off on Camino was the only downside - though, to be fair to him, he always says that he's delighted I'm doing this adventure, and he …

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