The lights came on in the abbey dormitory at 06:15, breakfast was at 07:00, and we had to be out and away by 08:00. It had not been a restful night. Twenty or so people jammed into a room with bunk beds. I have to say that my years of going on the top bunk …
Continue reading Camino Stage 6: Day 9 – Roncesvalles to Zubiri
The day started before dawn with breakfast at 06:30. With my walking companions, Jackie and Simon, we had left SJPdP by 07.20. Normally, I would have considered this a very bad thing, but today was a particular day of challenge! Through the Virgin's Gate early The old town of SJPdP is really very small, and …
Continue reading Camino Stage 6: Day 8 – Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles
Today has been a special day on this adventure. After a good night in Ostabat the group of ten or so pilgrims who had stayed together, shared breakfast and left at about eight. My plan had been to go to Mongelos, eleven kms away. But it was a perfect walking day, and my foot seemed …
Continue reading Camino Stage 6: Day 7 – Ostabat-Asme to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
Dawn in Saint-Palais The hostel in Saint-Palais had been a Franciscan friary until 2005 when the last friars left. It was taken over by the municipality and comprehensively upgraded (new cloister constructed besides other improvements). Use is now shared between the municipal tourist office, a museum of Basque history and the pilgrims hostel. In the …
Continue reading Camino Stage 6: Day 6 – Saint-Palais to Ostabat-Asme
After a cordial breakfast with my host, Pascal, I was on the road by 08:30. But before I tell you more about my day, I am going to explain something about French home ownership that Pascal taught me, and which I am still trying comprehend. It began when I asked him about the scaffolding all …
Continue reading Camino Stage 6: Day 5 – Osserain-Rivareyte to Saint-Palais
My hostesses at Les Étoiles were kindness itself, but nevertheless I did not sleep well. Perhaps it was the humidity. I was woken in the night, briefly by the heavy rain. In the morning, it was ten degrees cooler and very overcast with low cloud. Not as beautiful, but much nicer for walking! The quince …
Continue reading Camino Stage 6: Day 4 – Les Étoiles d’Orion to Osserain-Rivareyte
From The Quire 