Camino Stage 6: Day 7 – Ostabat-Asme to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Today has been a special day on this adventure. After a good night in Ostabat the group of ten or so pilgrims who had stayed together, shared breakfast and left at about eight. My plan had been to go to Mongelos, eleven kms away. But it was a perfect walking day, and my foot seemed …

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Camino Stage 6: Day 6 – Saint-Palais to Ostabat-Asme

Dawn in Saint-Palais The hostel in Saint-Palais had been a Franciscan friary until 2005 when the last friars left. It was taken over by the municipality and comprehensively upgraded (new cloister constructed besides other improvements). Use is now shared between the municipal tourist office, a museum of Basque history and the pilgrims hostel. In the …

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Camino Stage 6: Day 5 – Osserain-Rivareyte to Saint-Palais

After a cordial breakfast with my host, Pascal, I was on the road by 08:30. But before I tell you more about my day, I am going to explain something about French home ownership that Pascal taught me, and which I am still trying comprehend. It began when I asked him about the scaffolding all …

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Camino Stage 6: Day 4 – Les Étoiles d’Orion to Osserain-Rivareyte

My hostesses at Les Étoiles were kindness itself, but nevertheless I did not sleep well.   Perhaps it was the humidity. I was woken in the night, briefly by the heavy rain. In the morning, it was ten degrees cooler and very overcast with low cloud. Not as beautiful, but much nicer for walking! The quince …

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Camino Stage 6: Day 3 – Orthez to Les Étoiles d’Orion.

My Airbnb in Orthez was above an Italian takeaway, so, for supper, I had an aubergine parmigiana followed by tiramisu (both home-made) for 11€. It also boasted a washing machine, so a quick wash kept me up to date, and a rack by the open kitchen window meant everything dried overnight. I turned in early, …

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Camino Stage 6: Days 1 & 2 – Southwell to Orthez

Yesterday was a special day for Laurence (his 26th sobriety anniversary, since you asked), marked by cards and visits from friends, and a great sense of pride. Me pushing off on Camino was the only downside - though, to be fair to him, he always says that he's delighted I'm doing this adventure, and he …

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