With temperatures scheduled to peak today, another early start was called for. I had slept well in my own room and was up, packed and ready for the off by 06:55.

The road out of Estella started to climb immediately, the street lights guiding us through some not very interesting  parts of the city. Once we got to the end of the town we were led left, towards the Monastery at Irache.

But of greater interest to the gaggle of pilgrims was the Bodega Irache, the winery that has been going for 130 years. They have a museum of wine that is, apparently, excellent. What the pilgrims wanted to see and test, however, was the free wine fountain!

It did not appeal on an empty stomach.

Shortly after this the path divided, and you choice meant two very different walks before the two ways met up again twelve or so kilometres later. One route followed field paths and went through villages before scaling a sharp ascent to a castle above Villamayor be Monjardin. Not many did this. The other path took us through thickly forested mountain slopes, with stunning views of the cliffs and forests on the other side of the valley. This is the one I took.

This was a beautiful path, which wound around the mountain, until it led us to the village of Luquin, and a municipal cafe.

Almost all the pilgrims on this route stopped there because it was starting to get hot, and also because we knew that there was nothing but very exposed countryside between there and Los Arcos. What I found I needed mostly was fluids.

Water bottles charged, I headed out across the countryside. On the way I passed a donkey in someone’s allotment –

The path now was wide and flat, and there was No Shade.

Relief came in the form of the “Pilgrims’ Oasis” – a splendid little mobile cafe, in the middle of nowhere, with tables and chairs under the trees for pilgrims. All they sold was fairly priced.

It was now only seven kilometres to the village of Los Arcos, my target destination, and where I had accommodation booked. I pressed on, and was in the main Square by 11:30. It had been a good walk, but a very thirsty one. I chatted to various people who turned up; Los Arcos had little accommodation, and what there was was booked up, so most were going on another seven kilometres to Sansol, and wanted to get that done before the afternoon heat hit.

At 13:00 – check-in time – I strolled up the street to my albergue. Señora appeared and went to check my prepaid booking. “But you are coming tomorrow,” she said. “This is what you have paid for”. She rather changed her tune when I produced our WhatsApp exchange, which clearly showed that my request was for tonight. She apologised and said that she might be able to squeeze in a camp bed. I didn’t fancy this, to be honest, so I was now facing seven plus more kilometres on top of the 22.8 I had already done! Señora had rung ahead, so at least I knew I had a bed.

The heat was punishing, the road was dead straight, there no shelter to speak of.

You could see Sansol from miles off, but it never seemed to get any nearer. I needed a song to march along to. Yesterday I had remembered a song from DRC, which fitted the bill perfectly. The chorus was ‘Alleluia’ – but, while I could remember the tune of the verse, the words totally escaped me. Anyway, almost with no effort they coalesced today, so I was able to swing along singing,

Alleluia! Tambula malembe okoko ma. Alleluia!

Roughly translated from the Lingala, it means, walk along slowly and you will get there in the end. Very appropriate.

Anyway I applied myself to singing this until I was less than two kilometres away. Feeling a bit dehydrated I stopped and took on water, and then got to my destination at 15:15

The hostel is in an old palace, restored and rescued from dereliction. Facilities are excellent, and it has a beautiful terrace built on the back, looking out over the valley below.

The other brilliant provision is a small cool water pool, for the footsore to gain some relief – it was magnificent!!

What looked like being a bit of a disaster has turn out well. Tomorrow I won’t need to start so early, as I only have 11k to do!