Camino Stage 5: Day 12 – Bayonne

The pilgrim hostel
Yvette and Miriam, the hospitalières

The day starts early in a pilgrim hostel. Everyone (bar one very heavy sleeper) was up and about from 6 am, and one woman left at 6.45 am! The rest had a light breakfast of coffee and bread and jam, and we’re away before 8 am. The rules of hostels oblige one to be out of the place from about 8 am to early afternoon, so I thought I would do some slow walking around and then get a coffee. When I was here last year, the south tower of the cathedral and its spire had been shrouded in scaffolding, which had now been removed, so I walked up to have look. Here are some early morning shots.

SW corner uncovered
The cathedral from the town walls
The former Bishop’s Palace

I ran into one of the people staying at the refuge, and we had an enjoyable chat over coffee. Today is a public holiday here, so few shops were open, but the town centre was enlivened by a noisy and colourful parade of Basque nationalists, trades unionists and others demonstrating for a better deal for their region.

I went back to the hostel for a rest, and to get my still complaining feet up. While horizontal I thought it would be interesting to work out how far I have walked this far. The answer is 850 Kms, or 528 miles. This the equivalent of walking from Lands End to Holy Island. I think this means I am approaching half way!

A Swiss man called Hans has turned up at the hostel. He is starting out to walk the Camino del Norte tomorrow, following the coastal path to Bilbao and Santander and beyond. We have agreed to go and get something to eat and drink together this evening. Tomorrow morning I will pack my rucksack and walk to the station to start a three train journey home. On the way, if I have the chance, I will reflect on what walking this French path has done to me or for me so far, and what things I think have yet to experience, if I ever do. 

From the cloisters, which, rather weirdly, cannot be accessed from inside the cathedral
Bayonne old town from across the Adour river
Old rampart towers are built in to the town’s streets

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