I’m in my room at the hostel with Olivier, my Belgian walking companion. I have just asked him how this town’s name is pronounced – he hasn’t a clue. I suppose that’s like asking anyone south of Sheffield how Slaithwaite should be pronounced. Anyway, if I pass a native as I’m leaving in the morning I will ask them, otherwise it will remain a mystery.

Today started very foggy, and improved to heavy mist level. I thought sun would burn it off quickly, but it persisted all morning. Walking was pleasant, along green lanes and minor roads. Those of us who had been together in the hostel in Saint Sever started at different times, but our paths cris-crossed as we caught up or passed each other.

A particular delight was the village of Audignon, and it’s church of Our Lady of the Epiphany.

Inside was a real marvel – a 15C stone retable, retaining its original paintings.

The doorway leads into a small room at the end of the apse, used in the war for hiding guns from the Germans.

It was a very moving discovery, and good to find in a church that was open, clean and clearly loved, cared for and used. At the west end of the South aisle was the 18C retable that hid the stone one until we’ll into the 20C

By the time we got to Horsarrieu the sun was out, and it was considerably warmer. I am conscious that I only have two more days on this route, and I have walked almost the entirety of the way from Vézelay, and I am starting to get myself used to the idea that I will be saying it goodbye. There have been many beauties to see, natural and constructed, on the way, and Audignon and Horsarrieu were outstanding among simple parish churches, despite us not meeting anyone there, for the way they had messages welcoming pilgrims, and we’re clearly pleased to have us visit.

I got to this unpronounceable destination at about 1pm. The hostel is provided by the municipality, and has a hot shower, clean beds, but not much else. The kitchen is minimal, but sufficient.

However, to gain access you had to go to the huge municipal sports complex a kilometre away, to pay, to register, to get your pilgrim passport stamped (the ‘credential’ – with all its stamps – is shown in Compostela to prove you have done the pilgrimage), and to get the access code. These refugees are very cheap places to stay – tonight’s is only 9.50€. but you really feel those extra kilometres at the end of a day’s walking.

The rest of the day has been shower, foot care, siesta, walk to shop for food (another 2 Kms!), cooking and eating. Time for bed now. God bless you all!