My Airbnb in Orthez was above an Italian takeaway, so, for supper, I had an aubergine parmigiana followed by tiramisu (both home-made) for 11€. It also boasted a washing machine, so a quick wash kept me up to date, and a rack by the open kitchen window meant everything dried overnight. I turned in early, and slept solidly for eight hours 45 minutes. Most unlike me, but I woke feeling well-rested.

I had a big hot coffee (excellent and unfussy Philips Senseo machine – one I could actually imagine using!) on my balcony, then went out shopping. France is tricky on Sundays and Mondays. All shops shut at midday on Sundays, and most then don’t open until Tuesday. I have meals booked for the evenings at my accommodations on Sunday and Monday, but there are no bars or cafes open. I bought a small baguette, a tomato and a tin of pâté. With cheese and an apple I already had, I’m sorted for picnics for two days.

I packed up and went to church. Pleasingly busy, with a good age range. Then I set off about 11.45. Because I am treating my right foot carefully, I am not doing long distances. So there is no point leaving too early. Most accommodation doesn’t welcome you turning up before 4pm, so I have to spread out my day with walking and breaks, which is no bad thing.

It was a hot day, but some cloud cover helped. However, it was heavy and humid, and some rain is coming. All the cows were lying down. Walking was a sweaty business. In some ways today was a classic Chemin de Vézelay day: I passed no one, no one passed me, I said ‘Bonjour’ to about three people, and walked 13kms in blissful solitude!

Béarn is a strikingly beautiful part of France.  It is rolling foothill country, all up hill and down dale, verdant even after the summer we have had.

There were long climbs and long descents today, the longest of which brought me down to l’Hôpital d’Orion. An ancient centre for care of pilgrims, it is now little bigger than a hamlet. All that remains of the hospital buildings is the tiny church of St Mary Magdalene. A statue of the Pilgrim tells you that you’re on the right path.

My accommodation was up a steep hill outside the village. Excellent welcome from Madame, who got me settled in with a nice cold beer, then offered to put my sweaty gear through a quick wash. So much appreciated!

So, a good start. No complaints from my foot. I did as Phil Hyde-Barker (top foot man – hat tip!) told me, and got my boots and socks off while I had my picnic at Laaneplaa. Exercises, massage and 45 minutes rest meant no significant pain this afternoon. Now resting up. The test will be doing it again tomorrow!