Fabienne and I said goodbye to François and Hilde and left Sorges at 08.15.

Different associations run groups of refuges. This was first class. Today’s walking was remarkable for being almost entirely on green lanes and forest paths. Fabienne, a year 8 teacher in south Belgium, and I agreed to walk together and apart as either of us wanted, so there was no pressure, and we agreed on little talking. I was glad of our silence, because it meant we came round a corner and saw a fine big roebuck.

We continued through rolling country: it was getting very warm, but remained overcast. After a while I went on ahead. We then had some considerable climbs into a ten kilometre stretch of forest walking, some of it through ancient mossy chalk and flintstone lined paths.

Hidden around a corner this chateau sprang into view

It is the best regional example of a XV Century castle. Four towers, with linking walls making it octagonal, a surviving moat and drawbridge. It is privately owned and this was as near as you could get. A few miles further on the forest road were an astonishing collection of what can only fairly be described as French Footballers’ Wives houses.

I stopped for a picnic lunch, which was enlivened by the closest encounter I have ever had with a red squirrel. He shot out into the road ahead of my picnic spot. Stopped dead when he saw me (no more than five feet away), and the lolloped off trying to look cool. He was!

Fabienne had caught up with me and we walked down into the delightful old town of Périgueux (the less said about the environs the better). The old town is dominated by the Cathedral of St Front, whose nave consists of a sequence of wide barrel vaults, interspersed with domes.it is a most impressive building. We got our crédentials stamped by their Sacristan, who said he knew Southwell Minster.

From here we went to the market square for a drink, and then to our hostel. Another passport stamp ( you can’t have too many on the Camino), a shower, a rest, Mass at the church round the corner (with the priest in blue trousers and brown shoes – if you know, you know!), a wander back into the centre for some food, and then bed. My phone said I had done 43850 steps yesterday – I was ready for my sleep.