My accommodation had taken me off the main route, so I decided to improvise and head more directly for Gargilesse. The morning was overcast with spots of rain, the walking was road walking across the plains of the Berry. There was a chill wind, and it was all rather uninspiring. My route took me through nowhere at all for twelve kilometers, and I passed no one, only spent my time avoiding oncoming traffic. A head down, get on with it morning.

But as we got nearer the Creuse valley the landscape changed. More undulation, lots of trees, and then at last a forest path through high banks, almost hobbit-like in its circularity.

Then I emerged onto a ridge with beautiful views

and then I started descending towards Gargilesse, passing vineyards,

until Castle and church came into view at the bottom of the valley.

What is special about Gargilesse, I hear you ask. Well, it is the village where the two Camino routes from Vézelay (the northern via Bourges, and the southern via Nevers) meet, and from here to the Spanish border share a common path.

It is also among ‘les plus belles villages de France’, and Georges Sand had a home here. It is a visual joy, and full of artists. Here are some pictures: first of the village;

the Castle gate

and lastly, of the exterior and interior of Notre Dame de Gargilesse, whose crypt has wonderful XII C frescoes:

I have stopped tonight in a beautiful house outside the village, built by a successful chemical manufacturer from Chateauroux. Built in 1925, it is being lovingly restored by a Dutch couple. And has wonderful views down to the river Creuse, of which more tomorrow.